Our approach to gold and platinum
ETHICAL METALS
Every piece of Lebrusan Studio jewellery begins with a choice about metal. The provenance of the metal in our jewellery is one of the most consequential decisions we make, and one we have been thinking carefully about since the very beginning of Lebrusan Studio. Here we explain the options we offer, why we offer them, and what each one means in practice.
Why metal provenance matters
No matter how beautifully designed or expertly crafted, a piece of jewellery is only as ethical as the materials it is made from. Gold and platinum mining are responsible for some of the most significant environmental and human rights challenges in the jewellery industry. Vast volumes of land, water and energy are consumed to extract even small quantities of precious metal, and the communities closest to mining operations often bear the greatest cost.
The good news is that there are ways we can enjoy Mother Nature's gifts whilst remaining mindful of our impact on the world. We offer three options: Fairmined Gold, Fairmined Ecological Gold, and recycled gold and platinum. No single option is perfect; each promises its own strengths and limitations, and that's precisely why we offer you the choice.
Read more: The trouble with gold mining →
Artisanal gold: Fairmined and Fairmined Ecological
Artisanal and small-scale mined gold, known as ASM gold, is extracted by miners who work independently rather than for large mining companies, often forming small cooperatives. 90% of the world's gold miners work in ASM operations, with an estimated 100 million people across the globe relying on small-scale mining to support their families and communities.
Here at Lebrusan Studio, we offer ASM gold that can be traced right back to its cooperative of origin. To ensure that this gold has been mined safely and traded fairly, we work exclusively with the Fairmined certification scheme.
Fairmined Gold
Developed by the Alliance for Responsible Mining, Fairmined is an assurance label that certifies gold from empowered ASM operations. The Fairmined Standard guarantees responsibly managed mines, safe working conditions, fair wages and trade prices, direct access to international markets and responsible supply chains. Fairmined Gold is sold with a premium, enabling us to contribute directly to ASM communities, covering certification costs and investing in environmental protection and socioeconomic development.
Fairmined Ecological Gold
Fairmined Ecological Gold goes one step further. In addition to meeting the full Fairmined Standard for social development, fair treatment and equitable payment, Ecological Gold is extracted without the use of mercury or cyanide. It also requires tighter management of environmental risks, prohibits mining in protected areas, and demands a dedicated programme of restoration and rehabilitation of mined areas. It is gold that is responsible not only with regards to human rights, but also to the environment.
Lebrusan Studio was among the first jewellers in the UK to offer Fairmined Ecological Gold, sourcing from communities including La Llanada in Colombia where miners have dedicated three decades to extracting gold without mercury, and the XAMODX mine in southern Mongolia, the world's first organisation to achieve Fairmined Ecological certification.
The CRAFT Code
The CRAFT Code is a framework that formalises and improves mining practices in ASM operations, acting as a pathway to engage with formal markets. An example of an initiative underpinned by the CRAFT Code is PeaceGold. The ground-breaking PeaceGold initiative partners with ASM cooperatives in conflict-affected areas of the Democratic Republic of Congo to transform gold into a source of peace and prosperity, eliminating child labour, striving for gender equality and reintegrating ex-combatants.
We recognise that no single metal option holds all the answers. That is why we offer a considered range, and why we are always honest about the limitations of each.
Recycled gold and platinum
Alongside our mined artisanal gold, we offer recycled gold and platinum across all of our collections. The environmental case for recycled metal is compelling. Whilst 1 gram of newly mined gold generates 36,410 grams of greenhouse gases, the recycled equivalent generates only 53 grams. That is 686 times - or 99.8% - less carbon dioxide released into the atmosphere. To put that in context, an average wedding band cast in newly mined gold accounts for roughly the same greenhouse gas emissions as a British household generates in an entire week.
We use 100% recycled gold in all of our recycled gold jewels. We use recycled platinum in all of our platinum jewels, with our recycled platinum never containing less than 90% pure recycled platinum.
The limitations of recycled gold
We believe in being honest. Recycled gold has become a greenwashing device in recent years, used by some as a silver bullet to claim responsible, carbon-free practices. The Alliance for Responsible Mining has noted that the environmental benefits of recycled gold are frequently overstated, particularly since objects like old jewellery, coins and gold bars cannot truly be considered waste if they were never destined to be discarded in the first place.
There is currently no universal definition for 'recycled gold', allowing problematic gold to enter legitimate supply chains through loopholes. We support the movement towards a standardised definition, greater due diligence and greater honesty from jewellery brands - including ourselves.
Recycled+ Gold: going further
Knowing the limitations of recycled gold is what led us to develop Recycled+ Gold. We believe that recycling matters, but we also believe that recycling alone is not enough.
Every Recycled+ Gold ring is made from recycled gold and paired with Fairmined Credits, a direct premium paid to certified artisanal mining communities in Latin America. These communities mine without mercury or cyanide and under independent audit. Their livelihoods depend on being recognised and rewarded for doing things right. Recycled + Gold celebrates circularity and minimising new extraction, whilst continuing to generate real support for people who mine responsibly. Ethical jewellery is a practice in balance and nuance.
How to choose
If your priority is supporting mining communities and ensuring your gold tells a transparent story of positive social and economic impact, Fairmined Gold is the right choice.
If you want to go further still, combining the environmental benefits of recycled metal with direct support for certified artisanal mining communities, Recycled+ Gold was made for you.
All of our platinum jewels are made from recycled platinum as standard.
We'e always happy to talk through the options with you. Get in touch →
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Your questions about ethical gold, answered
Both are certified by the Alliance for Responsible Mining and guarantee fair wages, safe working conditions and responsible supply chains. Fairmined Ecological Gold goes one step further by prohibiting the use of mercury and cyanide entirely, requiring tighter environmental risk management, banning mining in protected areas, and demanding a programme of restoration of mined land. If environmental impact is your primary concern, Fairmined Ecological is the stricter of the two. Lebrusan Studio offers both.
The two options address different problems and neither is objectively better. Recycled ensures the continued circulation of gold already above-ground, generating 99.8% fewer greenhouse gas emissions than newly mined gold. Fairmined Gold, meanwhile, supports the 100 million people worldwide who depend on artisanal small-scale mining for their livelihoods, ensuring they are paid fairly and able to work safely. Choosing between the two depends on whether your priority is environmental impact or human impact. Our Recycled+ Gold option addresses both.
Recycled+ Gold is Lebrusan Studio's own approach to combining the best of both options. Every Recycled+ ring is made from recycled metal and paired with Fairmined Credits, a direct premium paid to certified artisanal mining communities in Latin America that mine without mercury or cyanide, under independent audit. It means less new extraction and real financial support for responsible miners. It was created because we believe recycled gold alone is not always enough.
We believe in honesty. There is currently no universal definition for 'recycled gold,' which creates loopholes that allow problematic material to enter legitimate supply chains. Recycled gold can also be used as a greenwashing device, with some brands using it to claim broad ethical credentials without addressing the human rights side of the supply chain. The Alliance for Responsible Mining has noted that its environmental benefits are frequently overstated. We offer recycled gold as one of several options, but not as a simple solution.
If supporting artisanal mining communities is your priority, Fairmined Gold ensures that your purchase has a direct and traceable socioeconomic impact. If minimising your environmental footprint matters most, recycled gold produces 99.8% fewer emissions than newly mined gold. If you care equally about both, Recycled+ Gold was made for you. All platinum jewellery at Lebrusan Studio is made from recycled platinum as standard. We are happy to talk through the options at a consultation.
Our collections
Every metal option is available across our ethical engagement rings, ethical wedding rings and bespoke commissions.