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Lab-grown diamonds: Are they ethical?

At Lebrusan Studio, we create thoughtful jewellery with intention. In response to growing interest in lab-grown diamonds, we’re here to offer clear, honest guidance on this modern alternative to the natural diamond - and the option to create a custom engagement ring or bespoke commission with them, on request. With over 20 years as a jewellery designer, I’ve seen both the promise and the limitations of lab-grown diamonds, and it’s this first-hand experience that enables us to advise you with confidence and transparency.

Are lab-grown diamonds sustainable?

Many clients come to us asking whether lab-grown diamonds are truly ethical, whether they are more sustainable than natural stones, or if they offer better value for money. These are important questions, and the answers are not always straightforward. Whilst lab-grown diamonds can reduce reliance on mining, they are also energy-intensive to produce. By comparing them with alternatives like reclaimed old cut diamonds or jewellery remodelled from heirlooms, we help you explore every option available - so your jewel reflects both your values and your story.

Lab-grown diamonds vs. natural diamonds?

Lab-grown diamonds are real diamonds, identical to mined diamonds in chemical composition and physical properties. They're created in labs using advanced technological processes that mimic the natural conditions under which diamonds form in the Earth’s mantle.

However, in 2025 the Gemmological Institute of America (GIA) - the world’s foremost authority in gemmology - announced that it will no longer use its universally recognised 4Cs grading system for lab-grown diamonds. Unlike natural diamonds, which are graded by cut, colour, clarity and carat, lab-grown diamonds will receive simplified descriptors - categorised broadly as either 'premium' or 'standard'. This shift in perspective further emphasises the divide between natural diamonds and lab-grown diamonds.

How are lab-grown diamonds made?

There are two main processes used to grow diamonds in a lab: High Pressure High Temperature (HPHT) and Chemical Vapour Deposition (CVD).

HPHT replicates the intense heat and pressure conditions found deep underground, whilst CVD uses carbon-rich gas to build up layers of diamond on a seed crystal. Both methods result in a gemstone with the same sparkle, hardness, and brilliance as a natural diamond, but also inclusions.

Lab-grown diamonds vs. Recycled Old-cut Diamonds?

At Lebrusan Studio, we specialise in slow jewellery with intention. For that reason, we favour reclaimed old-cut diamonds for their circularity and historical charm, and artisanal diamonds for their socioeconomic benefits.

Lab-grown diamonds are not our default choice, but we do recognise that for many people they present a compelling alternative. They're significantly more affordable than natural diamonds of comparable size and quality, and this accessibility creates an undeniably exciting opportunity for bolder design choices and larger carat weights.

Whether you're drawn to lab-grown for budget or aesthetics, we’ll help you navigate your options with honesty and expertise.

Commission a lab-grown diamond jewel

Designed by award-winning Arabel Lebrusan and brought to life by some of London and Madrid's most skilled craftspeople, a Lebrusan Studio heirloom tells a unique story of innovative design, exquisite craftsmanship and beautiful ethics. Whether a signature love ring from our collection or a unique bespoke commission, please get in touch to commission a jewel set with a lab-grown diamond.