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In order to discuss the ethical credentials of old cut diamonds, we must first define the notion of ‘ethics’.
Here at Lebrusan Studio, we choose to view the world through the lens of Kate Raworth’s Doughnut Economics model. The inner ring of Raworth’s Doughnut represents the social foundation every human being has a right to (such as health, education, income and a political voice). Meanwhile, the outer ring marks the ecological ceiling we must not collectively overshoot (limitations including a stable climate, a resilient ozone layer, biodiversity, and natural resources). Between these two boundaries lies a “safe and just space for humanity.”
In short, an ethical jewellery business by this definition is one that ensures the people involved in its supply chains are granted the rights to their social foundation, whilst also taking active steps to ensure its activities do not contribute to excessive strain on our planet’s environmental limits.
Let’s explore where old cut diamonds - and their modern counterparts - fit into this doughnut-shaped vision of sustainability.
By definition, an old cut diamond is a hand-faceted diamond predating the machine-cut diamonds of today; generally hailing from the late 19th century or early 20th century. There are a number of variations of the old cut diamond; you can learn more about the nuances of these cutting styles here.
Old cut diamonds are often reclaimed from antique or vintage jewellery, offering the opportunity to create new pieces of diamond-set jewellery without the demand for any newly-mined diamonds. This alone makes them a powerful example of circular economy principles: using what’s already above ground before extracting more from the Earth.
Environmentally speaking, this is a clear win. It’s no secret that industrial diamond mining contributes to significant land degradation, biodiversity loss, deforestation and carbon emissions, not to mention the rapid consumption of a finite natural resource. Whilst small-scale diamond mining is undoubtedly less strenuous on our planet than the operations of ginormous open-pit mines, the artisanal diamond sector is not entirely blameless either. Sadly, there are still a number of informal artisanal diamond mines around the world responsible for contaminating surrounding land and waterways, air pollution, and erosion.
Choosing an old cut diamond is a simple means of not contributing to that environmental footprint, instead extending the life of a finite natural material already in circulation. From a Doughnut Economics perspective, old cut diamonds sit comfortably within the ecological ceiling, not compromising Planet Earth’s ability to sustain life for future generations. They are, in essence, part of a regenerative cycle - something Raworth calls us to prioritise as we reimagine how goods and materials can circulate in the global economy.
A’s bespoke engagement ring with a 0.8ct artisanal Ocean Diamond
Newly mined diamonds are the livelihood of roughly 40 million artisanal and small-scale miners (ASMs) and another 150 million people indirectly dependent on the industry. The majority of these miners and their communities are based in the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC), Sierra Leone and Tanzania.
For these miners, income from the diamond trade supports their families, communities and in some cases entire local economies. To eliminate demand for newly mined diamonds altogether would be to cut off a vital source of income for these workers - many of whom already live close to or below Raworth’s social foundation. In this light, the ethics of diamond consumption cannot be separated from questions of global equity and justice.
As touched upon previously, many of these ASM miners work informally, outside of regulated supply chains. Sadly, this leaves them vulnerable to exploitation in the form of unfair and unreliable pay, unsafe working conditions and nefarious middle-men. The refusal to engage with natural diamonds on this basis will not solve the problem; only exacerbate it by driving prices down and further compromising the stability of legitimate supply chains. Countries like DRC, Sierra Leone and Tanzania are rich in mineral wealth. Currently, the benefits of this mineral wealth are largely reaped by just a privileged few. As advocates for ethical jewellery, it’s our responsibility to push for greater formalisation in the artisanal diamond mining sector to ensure mining communities are better protected, and we
In other words, the global demand for mined diamonds plays an important role in driving an equitable future for those who rely on artisanal diamond mining to survive. Old cut diamonds may tread lightly on the planet, but they do not serve these people in any way. This ethical ‘blind spot’ can’t be ignored. Instead, it reminds us that there is often tension between reducing environmental harm and making a positive socioeconomic impact.
It’s worth pointing out here that not all natural diamonds are created equal. Increasingly, there are efforts within the natural diamond industry to simplify and formalise supply chains and support ASM mining communities with the fairer wages, safer working conditions and community development initiatives we mentioned above.
Diamonds for Peace, for example, is an international non-governmental organisation supporting artisanal mining cooperatives in various developing countries in Africa in improving working conditions and social prospects for the miners. Meanwhile, Ocean Diamonds sources artisanal seabed diamonds from local career divers in South Africa and Namibia, ensuring that that these local communities actively benefit from mined diamonds as a vessel for prosperity, unity and development. These models have carved out a place for diamond mining within the “safe and just space” that Raworth advocates - minimising ecological harm whilst empowering people to live above the social foundation.
Supporting efforts like these is an opportunity to approach the complexity of the diamond industry and drive meaningful socioeconomic change.
So, are old cut diamonds more ethical than modern cut diamonds?
Environmentally, recycled old cut diamonds are indeed the more sustainable option. They exemplify the possibility of a circular economy, creating an accessible and budget-friendly route to new jewellery without demanding further mining and ecological harm. In this sense, they represent the regenerative model that aligns with the upper boundary of Kate Raworth’s Doughnut. They’re also beautiful storytellers, crystallising the cultural heritage of time-honoured craft techniques and fostering an appreciation for slow, symbolic jewellery.
Socially, however, the argument for old cut diamonds is not quite as simple. Whilst kind on the planet that humankind relies on, reclaimed diamonds do not support global mining communities or offer solutions to the economic hardship faced by so many of them. In prioritising exclusively recycled materials, we may be doing our bit for the planet – but at what cost to a more equitable world for humankind?
This duality underlines an important lesson in ethical consumption: rarely is any choice entirely ‘good’ or ‘bad’. Most decisions involve trade-offs between environmental impact, human livelihood, cultural heritage, and economic justice. Our role is not to seek perfect answers, but to educate ourselves on nuances and ask more catalytic questions.
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Love, Arabel & Team
It's possible to embrace the beautiful materials that Mother Nature offers us without harming our beautiful planet. By asking questions, simplifying supply chains and sharing our knowledge with the world, we can achieve this balance.
