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For those seeking a beautiful piece of fine jewellery that aligns closely with their moral compass, reclaimed diamonds and gemstones offer a compelling alternative to newly mined stones. But what exactly does ‘reclaimed’ mean in this context? And how doreclaimed precious stones compare to their newly sourced counterparts?
In this article,we’ll explore the meaning of‘reclaimed’ diamonds and gemstones, howthey’re sourced, why theymight be the right pick for you,and how to shop for them confidently.
Ready-to-wear engagement rings set with reclaimed diamonds
A reclaimed diamond or gemstone is quite literally a stone that’s already been mined, cut and used – often in vintage or antique jewellery – before being reused in a new piece of jewellery. Instead of demanding the extraction of further natural resources, jewellers like us source reclaimed diamonds and gemstones as an opportunity to champion the resilient precious materials already above-ground, minimising our carbon footprint whilst championing old legacies.
Unlike recycled metals, which are melted down and reprocessed to their original state in order to start anew, reclaimed diamonds and gemstones retain their original form. They’re often removed from older settings, cleaned, graded (if necessary), and reset into new designs – bringing timeless beauty forwards to a new chapter.
Reclaimed diamonds and gemstones are most commonly retrieved from the following sources:
Vintage or antique jewellery sold at auction
Inherited pieces of heirloom jewellery, brought to us by our clients for bespoke remodelling commissions
Inherited or second-hand pieces sold to jewellers, pawnbrokers or refineries
Unsold or damaged stock from jewellers who are retiring or carrying a surplus
Jewellery that’s ended up in landfill (yes, really!)
Unless working directly with our clients on bespoke remodelling projects, we tend to source our old sparklers from trusted suppliers who specialise in pre-loved gemstones. By the nature of vintage it’s very rarely possible to trace a reclaimed gemstone’s journey back much further than this, and we know this lack of traceability doesn’t sit comfortably with everyone – but what is undeniable is the role that reclaimed gemstones have to play in minimising the jewellery industry’s carbon footprint today.
We are vocal advocates for theCircular Economy model of sharing, leasing, repairing, refurbishing and recycling existing materials and products for as long as possible. In the contemporary context, one aspect of this practice is not avoiding or denying the potentially exploitative backstories of vintage and antique jewellery, but learning about imperialistic histories andadopting a decolonising framework that enables us to appreciate and reclaim old jewellery responsibly.
There are several reasons why a growing number of people are choosing reclaimed diamonds and gemstones for their ‘forever’ jewels; especially for meaningful heirlooms like engagement rings and wedding bands.
1. It’s more environmentally sustainable
Sadly, it cannot be denied that mining for diamonds and gemstones has significant environmental consequences. Even small-scale artisanal mining involves land displacement, water usage, and energy-intensive processes. It’s important to mention here that we will always support the millions of artisanal and small scale miners (ASM) around the world whose livelihoods are inextricably intertwined with extraction, but striking the Doughnut Economics balance involves simultaneously acknowledging the wealth of opportunity already in circulation. Reclaimed gemstones avoid the need for further extraction, significantly minimising the environmental footprint of a finished jewel.
2. It preserves craftsmanship and history
Every reclaimed diamond or gemstone tells a story; whether we can glean the details from their physical attributes or are left to speculate over their intrigue. Antique stones often carry the legacy of cutting techniques that are no longer widely used, offering a glimpse into the craftsmanship of a bygone era. Old cut diamonds, for example, showcase hand-faceting and a relationship with candlelight rather than electrical lighting. With their deeper and softer sparkle, asymmetric facets, character marks and slight inclusions, old cut diamonds exude one-of-a-kind charm. Reclaiming them is a way to honour and extend that legacy.
Absolutely. Reclaimed diamonds and gemstones are chemically and structurally identical to their newly mined counterparts. Diamonds, rubies and sapphires in particular are gemstones that score high on the Mohs Scale of Hardness, making them incredibly resilient over time. Unlike cars and electronics, diamonds and gemstones do not instantly lose value simply by being owned. Their worth is instead determined by factors such as their colour, cut, clarity, and carat weight, their rarity and market demand, and their provenance.
In some cases, reclaimed stones – especially antique cuts that have been well preserved – may even command higher prices due to their scarcity and historical appeal.
Although we’re not often able to offer detailed information on the exact provenance of a reclaimed stone, we buy our gems from reputable suppliers who specialise in the sourcing and trading of pre-loved sparklers They’re committed to learning and sharing as much as they can on the journeys of their gemstones, employing qualified gemmologists to clean, assess, test and identify each one. This not only offers an assurance of quality, but often helps us to estimate the age of a gemstone – taking into account cutting styles and techniques, wear and tear, and signs of the gemstone being previously mounted. This information is collated to enable jewellers like us to ascertain that a diamond or gemstone has already been in circulation for some time.
Whether a hand-faceted Old Mine Cut Diamond shimmering quietly with the chronicles of a life well lived or a sapphire plucked from a client’s 21st century brooch for a new life purpose, we treat reclaimed gemstones as vessels for environmental justice and cultural heritage – handled and re-set with care and intention.
If you have enjoyed this article and would like to learn more about ethical jewellery, make sure you sign up below to receive our newsletter and tell a friend about our services. Don’t forget to give us a call or drop us an email if you need further advice.
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Love, Arabel & Team
It's possible to embrace the beautiful materials that Mother Nature offers us without harming our beautiful planet. By asking questions, simplifying supply chains and sharing our knowledge with the world, we can achieve this balance.
