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In a world awash with captivating options, how can we differentiate between what glitters and what truly shines? At Lebrusan Studio, we’re very fortunate to work with clients whose personal values reflect ours: People who view jewellery as a powerful vessel for environmental and socioeconomic change. Like us, they’re passionate about slow, purposeful jewellery that tells stories they can feel proud to pass down from one generation to the next.
But in the glossy, saturated world of fine jewellery, it’s not always easy to find this perfect match; to understand exactly how you define beautiful jewellery in your terms, and find a jewellery brand that truly aligns with that vision.
Scroll through Instagram or browse a high street catalogue and you’ll probably have noticed a trend for jewellery that seems strangely familiar. That’s no coincidence.
Mass production and computer-generated design software have made it easier than ever for brands to churn out jewellery collections at breakneck speed. Automated rendering tools can simulate a finished 3D design before a single piece is even created. For a jewellery designer like us, these tools are a useful aid for both us and our client to visualise a bespoke design before proceeding to the craft stage – but these tools also have a tendency to create an aesthetic sameness that can dilute originality and mask the craft behind true jewellery-making.
This is especially true in the age of algorithm-driven commerce. When success is measured purely in clicks and conversions, many brands wind up on a fast-paced hamster wheel of designing and producing what sells, not what truly matters to them as designers.
We recommend looking for signs of originality in design, the presence of traditional craft techniques like hand engraving, and evidence of small-batch or made-to-order production. These tend to signal slower, more considered processes – and a deeper human connection to the piece you’re buying.
Terms like ‘sustainable,’ ‘ethical’ and ‘eco-friendly’ appear on countless jewellery websites today. But what do they actually mean? In many cases, not very much.
Greenwashing – the practice of using vague or misleading claims to appear more sustainable than you truly are – is rampant across the fashion and jewellery industries. Some brands may claim ‘ethical sourcing’ without providing any real traceability information. Others might market recycled gold as ‘the only way’ without acknowledging the nuances of its pros and cons, true of all responsibly sourced precious materials. Aspirational language is often a façade for a lack of research or true understanding.
If you’re keen to deepen your reckoning of greenwashing and how it might present itself, you may wish to read our guide to spotting, avoiding and challenging it. In short, we recommend seeking brands that define their language in tangible terms, offer supply chain transparency with back-up evidence, and openly discuss their values and limitations.
Whilst discussions of ethics and sustainability are more prevalent within the mainstream than ever before, it’s worth remembering that truly ethical jewellery is not the industry standard, and remains the more expensive option. To this day, jewellery designers like us pay a premium to offer responsibly sourced materials and skilful, time-honoured craft techniques.
Meanwhile, mass-market jewellery relies on complex global supply chains, often with little visibility into mining conditions, labour rights, or environmental impact. When fine jewellery is sold for less than a pair of jeans, it’s worth asking: Who’s really paying for the price? The answer is usually exploited workers in under-regulated environments, and future generations who will inherit the environmental damage.
When 2018 analysis revealed that Uber’s low fares relied on the significant underpaying of its drivers, we learned the hard way that if a price tag seems too good to be true – it probably is.
Understanding what constitutes a fair price for a conscientious piece of jewellery is only the first step, however. Beyond the going rate, it’s crucial to ask the hard questions. Who mined this metal, and which chemicals were used in the process? Where were these gemstones extracted – and subsequently cut and polished? Do you know the name of the person who assembled this piece of jewellery? Ethical brands may not have all the answers, but they’ll never dodge the questions.
In a saturated market, frameworks can really help to clarify and cement priorities.
At Lebrusan Studio, we align ourselves with the principles of Doughnut Economics – a framework that balances human prosperity with planetary boundaries. Our challenge in the 21st century is to ensure that no one falls short on life’s essentials (food, housing, healthcare, political voice, etc.) whilst simultaneously reducing our collective pressure on Planet Earth’s life-supporting systems (a stable climate, fertile soils, a protective ozone layer, etc.) This framework is a compass that guides every decision we make – from the materials we use to our packaging, our business partnerships and the charities we support – is driven by the goal of minimising environmental impact, offering a tangible socioeconomic benefit, or both.
It reminds us that jewellery isn’t just adornment – it’s a powerful act of participation in the world we’re shaping.
We advocate for choosing a value system that resonates with you – whether it’s a circular economy, fair trade principles, or regenerative practices. Do your research and use it to filter your purchases. Ask yourself continually:
“Does this piece of jewellery reflect the kind of world I want to invest in?”
Whatever its purpose or symbolism, a piece of fine jewellery is an investment; an encapsulation of your spirit and a future heirloom that will tell the stories of today. It doesn’t need to keep up with the pace of fashion trends - it can be a timeless, personal ritual. A piece that lives with you, not just one that performs for the moment.
When it comes to designing and crafting jewellery, we try hard to reject the pace at which we make decisions elsewhere in our lives: Should we pick this broadband provider before the offer expires? Shall we whip up this dinner tonight before the ingredients in the fridge go off? Instead, we’re champions for bespoke commissions, remodelling of historic vintage materials, and designs that push the boundaries of traditional jewellery craft (and are often a little challenging to bring to life!) We invite you too to frame your jewellery as a considered process instead of an impulse; to pause, research and reflect.
In a world crowded with shiny options it’s easy to feel dazzled – and dazed. The next time you find yourself find yourself lost in the weeds of 100 identical rings or slogans that just sound a little too easy, take a breath. Ask a question. Remember the non-negotiables of your value system, and keep sight of your intention.
You deserve jewellery that honours your values and reflects your spirit. In fact, it’s the only kind worth wearing.
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Love, Arabel & Team
It's possible to embrace the beautiful materials that Mother Nature offers us without harming our beautiful planet. By asking questions, simplifying supply chains and sharing our knowledge with the world, we can achieve this balance.
