There’s something irresistible about an old cut diamond. Maybe it’s the soft shimmer beneath candlelight. Maybe it’s the slight wonkiness that hints at a human hand. Maybe it’s the knowledge that this gem has lived a life before yours – and still sparkles enduringly.

But as romantic old cut diamonds begin to gain popularity, so do imitations. Today, some jewellers offer “vintage-style” or “antique-inspired” stones that mimic the charm of the real thing, without the history and authenticity. In another context, you might be seeking a vintage engagement ring and would like to equip yourself with the ability to differentiate ‘old cut’ from simply ‘recycled’.

This blog post is your guide to spotting an authentic old cut diamond - and telling vintage diamonds apart from their modern counterparts.

 

Know your cuts: What is an old cut diamond?

Before identifying an old cut diamond’s authenticity, it's important to understand what qualifies as an old cut.

Old cut diamonds were the dominant style from the early 1700s until the early 20th century. They were cut entirely by hand, before the invention of modern laser and machine-cutting tools. Largely pre-dating mainstream electric lighting, these cuts prioritised sparkle in low light - especially candlelight. Their facets are much deeper than the contemporary brilliant-cut, which is designed for extreme surface-level sparkle.

The hand-faceted nature of old cut diamonds means each stone is subtly different, with unique proportions and quirks.

The three key variations of the old cut you’ll encounter are…

• Old Mine Cut Diamonds (popular in Georgian and Victorian jewellery): Squareish or cushion-shaped with a high crown, deep pavilion, small table, and chunky facets
• Old European Cut Diamonds (circa 1890–1930): Rounder than the mine cut, with a similar high crown, small table, open culet, and deep pavilion. This cut is the precursor to the modern brilliant cut
• Transitional Cut Diamonds (1930s–1940s): A hybrid between Old European and modern brilliant cuts, with some mechanisation involved in the cutting process.

If a diamond boasts any of these characteristics, it may well be an old cut – but they’re not a guarantee of vintage authenticity.

 

Check the diamond mounting: The setting tells a story

Old to new: Taking Tara’s inherited old-cut diamond from its original worn platinum setting and rehoming it in a new 18ct recycled yellow gold mount

 

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If you’re shopping specifically for a vintage or antique piece of jewellery, one of the most reliable clues to a diamond’s age is the setting it’s secured in. True vintage diamonds are often still housed in their original settings.

Here’s what to look for…

• Wear and tear: The vast majority of vintage jewellery has been pre-loved and comes with its own patterns of scratches, dints and hand-engraving that’s softened with time. This unique patina is what gives a vintage jewel its charm and can also help to identify a genuine vintage from a modern vintage-style replica.
  
  
• Hallmarking: If your piece of vintage or antique jewellery is hallmarked, lucky you! This is one of the easiest means of identifying age, origin and materials. However, the hallmarking of precious metals only became a legal requirement in the UK in the 1920s. For this reason it’s not unusual for an authentic vintage or antique to bear no hallmarking at all, or only the vague remnants of hallmarking that was once there many years ago.
  
  
• Design: To some extent, manufacturing eras can be identified by their defining style. Victorian settings, for example, often feature ornate engraving or floral motifs. Edwardian settings are typically lightweight, and often dotted with milgrain beading. Art Deco styles favour symmetry, geometry and bold forms. Presence of these distinctive markers can sometimes help to further offer clues to a jewel’s age.

 

Look for the diamond culet: A tiny window into the past

One of the easiest visual markers of an old cut diamond is its culet - the tiny facet at the very bottom of the stone.

Modern brilliant cut diamonds often have a pointed culet, whilst most old cuts have a flat or open culet. Viewed from the top (the table), this can look like a tiny circle or hole in the centre of the stone. An open culet was intentional - it helped reduce breakage during cutting and allowed light to bounce more softly within the diamond, creating that romantic, flickering glow that old cuts are known for.

Whilst you’re examining your diamond’s facets, keep an eye out for any irregularities; a lopsided edge or a lack of symmetry, for example. These charming quirks are indicators of hand-faceting, and would by no means be deemed ‘acceptable’ in today’s age of machine-cutting and perfection.

 

Assess the sparkle: Softer, warmer and more soulful

The ready-to-wear Fancy Hera engagement ring with 0.92ct old-cut diamond

Modern brilliant cut diamonds are engineered for maximum sparkle under bright electric light; their symmetry and precision creating a sharp, uniform brilliance. In contrast, old cut diamonds don’t glitter like their modern counterparts - they glow. Their broader facets and asymmetrical angles create a softer, more dispersed play of light - especially beautiful under candlelight or low evening light.

It’s not uncommon for old cut diamonds to boast a warmer tone than the average brilliant cut of today, too. When the 4Cs diamond-grading system was rolled out in 1949, also ushered in was a higher expectation for ‘perfection’. Generally speaking, the universal standard for a desirable diamond is anywhere within the ‘colourless’ D-E hue range. Predating this system, diamonds were not judged quite so critically, with more yellow and brown stones making their way into circulation.

In other words, if the diamond you’re looking at exhibits more personality than ‘perfection,’ it could well be a genuine vintage old cut.

 

Check for certifications and provenance (if available)

Alex’s bespoke engagement ring with 0.96ct old-cut pear diamond

Whilst old cut diamonds pre-date modern certification systems, many can now be assessed and graded by gemmological labs such as the Gemmological Institute of America (GIA). A GIA certificate can go as far as to confirm if a diamond is an Old Mine, Old European, or Transitional cut.

Some antique dealers or jewellers may also be able to provide provenance details - documentation or storytelling about the ring’s previous ownership, date of manufacture, or era-specific characteristics.

Of course, not every old cut diamond comes with a paper trail. That doesn’t mean it isn’t vintage - just that you’ll need to rely more heavily on visual assessment and the expertise of a trusted jeweller.

A reputable seller should be open and knowledgeable about the history of diamonds and their features. In the absence of documentation, it’s worth asking:

• Is this a genuine old cut diamond or a modern reproduction?
• Do you know which period of time this ring hails from?
• Can you tell if this diamond has been recut, repolished, or reset?
• Can you tell me about the materials used in the setting?

A trustworthy jeweller won’t mind these questions - in fact, they’ll likely welcome them.

 

Old cut diamonds are more than just beautiful – they’re storytellers. Each one carries offers a glimpse into the past: a hand that shaped it, a place it originated, a love it once symbolised. Reclaiming an old cut diamond not only enables you to make use of a precious material already above-ground; it connects you to a legacy.

At a time when imitation is easier than ever and mass production is the norm, learning to identify a real old cut diamond is a small act of preservation - of craft, history, and meaning.